Visiting Churches in Thessaloniki

 Yesterday, we headed out to visit some of the Byzantine churches in Thessaloniki, of which there are many.  Frank had made arrangements for us to be driven around by a taxi driver he knows because he is he cousin of one of the monks on Mt. Athos.  He is exactly as he seems in this picture...full of good humor and exceedingly thoughtful and kind.

As this is a blog rather than a lecture, I will try to stifle my professorial tendencies somewhat and just his a few highlights, but if you want to know more, there is:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paleochristian_and_Byzantine_monuments_of_Thessaloniki

ST. DEMETRIUS


 This is actually the third church we visited, but I am starting with it because it is very similar to western churches with a central nave and side aisles.  This church is quite grand, with double side aisles and a gallery.  Because it burned once, only parts of the first floor are original.

This plan for a church is based on the old Roman basilica.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica










HOLY APOSTLES

This is a small, but beautiful church built on the plan that became the more common one in the East, a "square-and-cross" plan with a central dome and shallow arms in four directions, which also sometimes had domes over them.  This church is a great example of the type.  This photo is from the rear.


It also has fabulous brickwork as the next two pictures show




Here in this detail you can also see how there is a constant battle against plants that want to grow on the roofs.













I just love this patterning.












ST. NICHOLAS ORPHANOS


 Since the interiors were dark, it was hard to get good pictures of the small "square-and-cross" churches, but this one at least gives a sense of how lavishly most of them were originally decorated.

I actually took this photo on the sly since the lady who managed the church said photography was not allowed.  At another church, I was sadly unable to get a picture of a beautiful fifth-century mosaic thanks to a more alert and determined lady.

ST. GEORGE

Here is a detail of a duck from one of the mosaics in the Church of St. George, which as originally the building over the tomb of the emperor Gallerius.  When the Ottomans controlled Greece, it was converted into a mosque, and after they left, became a public monument.